How to Pick Up Chicks:

Creating the ideal brooder environment

 

Introduction

Spring has sprung and it’s time to welcome some chicks into your flock!  But how should you set up a suitable space for a broody hen or for your freshly hatched chicks?  Read this article to find out how to keep them happy and healthy!

 

Hatching from hens

Hatching and raising chicks the natural way with hens can be extremely rewarding and fuss-free compared to using artificial incubation.  However, here’s how to avoid problematic situations:

• Keep the hen and chicks in a separate yard

This will reduce other adults in the flock from traumatising and potentially killing your chicks.  Multiple hens sitting on the same nest can become confused and aggressive when sharing chicks, so the best situation is to separate clucky hens prior to setting eggs underneath them.

• Set eggs on the same day to avoid long staggered hatchings

Unfortunately, most hens will leave the nest 1-3 days after the first chick hatches, so if you have eggs hatching out over a week, she may abandon the nest and the remaining chicks yet to hatch may die.  Alternatively, remove the chicks as they hatch and place in a brooder.

• Reduce parasites

Parasites, especially blood sucking mites can severely affect a broody hen and her chicks, even resulting in death!  Make sure you use appropriate anthelmintics and environmental control to reduce parasite burdens prior to chicks hatching.

 

Hatching from incubators 

On day 18 of incubation the eggs should stop being turned.  This allows the chick within the shell to wriggle around into the hatching position and begin pipping into the air cell and then the shell.  A humidity close to  60% and temperature of 37° should be maintained to stop chicks becoming too wet or dry as they try to hatch.  Hatching chicks onto a grip mat can help chick’s legs strengthen and minimise splayed legs caused by incorrect slippery surfaces.  When hatched, the chicks can survive for around 24-48 hours without eating as they are still feeding off nutrition from the yolk sac as it resorbs inside them.  This means you can leave chicks in your hatching unit or incubator to dry and strengthen for 24 hours to make sure they are robust enough to be placed in a brooder.

 

Help! When do I move a new chick to the brooder?

Placing wet newly hatched chicks directly into a brooder can lead to chilling and death.  Leave them in your incubator or hatcher for 24 hours to fluff up and dry out

 

The ideal environment for chicks

When setting up your brooder, there are 5 main points to consider:

1. Heat

This is one of the most important factors for chick survivability.  Chicks like a brooder to be around the same temperature as the hatcher/incubator, 37°, so make sure you measure this by placing a thermometer on the floor of the brooder.  Adequate heating sources include infrared heat lights and ceramic heat lamps.  Care must be taken to minimise draughts and drops in temperature overnight whilst also ensuring the chicks do not become overheated, as both scenarios can be fatal.  Chicks should be evenly spread throughout the brooder, as this indicates the temperature is comfortable.

 

 

Help! My chicks have singed feathers on their head!

This is most likely due to the heating implement or light globes being too low.

 

 

 

2. Light

It is recommended to have a light source separate from the heat source, as poultry cannot be continuously exposed to lighting and do require periods of darkness.  Current recommendations are 23 hours of light can be provided to chicks for the first 7 days after hatching but then needs to be reduced.

 

3. Brooder litter

What material you choose for the flooring of your brooder plays a monumental role in the ease of rearing chicks.  Choose a substrate that will keep your brooder environment as dry as possible.  Due to drinker containers, adequate ventilation is needed to reduce condensation and wetting of brooder litter, so designs that are open topped with wire netting can be beneficial to reduce moisture.  Litter options that work well include wood shavings, cat litter and stable bedding options.  Ideally, litter should be removed and replaced weekly to fortnightly depending on how many chicks you have and the size of the brooder.

 

Help! My brooder litter is wet!

If your litter becomes damp, remove the chicks, feed and water containers.  The remove and replace all the litter and dry any wet areas.  If this happens, it may be beneficial to place a coccidiostat in the drinking water, as wet litter often leads to coccidiosis outbreaks.  

 

4. Food and water

Chicks need a constant supply of feed within 24-48 hours of hatching.  Chick starter crumbs are ideal as they contain a balanced ration specifically formulated for growing chicks.  Whole grains, grass and lucerne chaff can be fed as small treats after 7 days of age.  This will encourage natural foraging behaviour, provide environmental enrichment, and help tame wild chicks.  Plus, whole grains such as wheat have been shown to improve the development of the upper digestive tract and lead to increased growth and weight gain.  Non-soluble grit can also aid in gizzard development and help chicks access vital nutrients.

Water dishes must be kept shallow and not allow chicks to become waterlogged.  A shallow thin water container such as specifically designed chick drinkers work best and limit water spillage.  Water should be replaced daily and kept away from the heat source to keep it cool and prevent algal growth.

5. Limit flammable materials

Be careful of placing heating elements too close to the walls of your brooder.  Always use appropriate electrical cabling and fittings and try to avoid using cardboard boxes as brooders.  For extra safety a fire alarm can be fitted in your brooder room.

 

There’s a lot to learn when it comes to raising chicks, but it is such a rewarding experience!  Don’t fret if everything doesn’t go according to plan the first time.  Just ensure you provide quality nutritious food and good hygiene, and your chicks will thrive!

Breanna Carr, 5th Year Veterinary Science Student